In my half-time summup, I mentioned not having a best or worst show really, but it's possible that both of them happened in Spokane.

...

I know I've talked a lot about the scenery, but the trip from Seattle to Spokane is particularly impressive - in a couple hours you hit (1) ocean, (2) rain forest, (3) the Rockies, (4) a LOT of snow, (5) badland hills, and (6) rolling plains. It's a landscape on fast-forward and is spectacular.

I know nothing about Spokane coming into town, except that I've been carefully instructed by other Americans to pronounce it Spo-Kan, not Spo-Kane.

I also don't know where I'm sleeping yet.

A brief word about Couch Surfing: originally a way to hookup with places to stay, "Couch Surfing" has become a movement of nice, like-minded folks who are open, trusting and interested in meeting people from around the world. It's worth a read about what they're about (www.couchsurfing.com), but suffice to say I'm now a complete convert.

Originally though, I thought it sucked. I'd signed up and sent a hasty couple of "couchsearches" out and got no response. So I gave up. Still, in Seattle, facing the hefty cost of 4 hotel nights ahead of me, I panicked and sent out a tons of new couchsearches - some for that night. And you know what? Every person got back to me, many phoning long distance to my cell. And if they were in town, they all offered me a place to stay. These are good people.

The first one I met was Catharine in Spokane. Catharine's a mother of four (well, bio-mom of two) and recently all of her kids have left, leaving her with an empty nest (save for Magellan the dog and Pippin the hedgehog). She carefully checked my profile (including looking at Irene's website) and, noticing that we had many things in common, invited me to stay with her.

I was late coming in to town though and decided to go straight to the Barnes & Nobel, where I was playing. For Canadians, B&N is a bookstore chain like Chapters. I was playing in their music department. Bookstore gigs can be quite good, but can also suck, so I'm a bit wary of them. Still, a show's a show. Unfortunately, I got there at 6:30, to find out that the store closed at 7 and that they had my show down for tomorrow...

Frantic phone calls to Catharine, explaining and hoping for another night's stay (still haven't met her) and to Nicholas who was putting me up in my next stop in Billings.

Finally, I meet Catharine and she leads me back to her beautiful place and cooks me dinner. I meet Magellen, the wonder dog who closes doors behind him. Afterwards Catharine and I jam a bit with her on harp - pretty cool - I ask her to join my band. However, I'm losing my voice and quickly head upstairs to crash, briefly meeting Pippin the hedgehog who huffs and puffs in my hand and, while adorable, is kind of prickly.

Apparently I sleep like the dead through a huge windstorm.

Next morning I head out to see Spokane, a city I still know very little about. I find a nice park with a skating rink, a carousel, and a giant red wagon (adding to my giant things collection). I take pictures of birds - seagulls, geese, and ducks - all preparing for their escape from the cold.

I go shopping, eat lunch, read a bit. Take a break. It's a nice day in a new town. Then I head to Barnes & Noble.

Tim at B&N sets me up in the music department next to the front opening. There's no sound system - which generally makes me look like a crazy person with a guitar in the middle of a store. Still, I'm game, and start playing. Tim makes announcements over the PA, but it doesn't really draw anyone. Some nice folks come in and stand awkwardly watching me, ask for a couple requests, and then leave. Everyone else walks by, looks surprised when they see/hear me, and then quickly scurry off.

This is not working.

I ask Tim if maybe I could move to the Starbucks, where people could sit and listen, but apparently the manager isn't there, so he can't approve it. Catharine comes by for a couple songs and looks distraught that THIS is my spokane gig. Still, it's nice to have an audience for more than one song. She leaves after a bit and I go back to playing for Tim and the occasionally brave shopper who will walk past the crazy man. After about an hour of this, I give up. This wasn't a paying gig - I was hoping to sell CDs - so it's been a complete waste of time. Tim even makes me pay for a cool CD-opening device ($1) at the counter.

I know. I know. I shouldn't let this get to me, but I've just driven 10 hours for THIS?!! Finally as I'm packing up, a nice guy comes up and talks guitars with me, and then eventually buys a CD, more out of pity, I think, than anything.

It's not Tim's fault or Barnes & Noble - although they should know that putting a musician where I was will not help, or really entice anyone into the music department. The Starbuck's would've been better. Still, it's a Monday gig - and most Monday gigs are bad. I should lighten up.

Determined to save the night, I ask Tim and the one CD purchaser guy where else in town I could play, if I come back, that I could check out that night. They point me downtown and I take off.

Downtown, many of the places are closed, but I get some emails to send requests to from a Country billiards place. Then I head down the street and stop into another bar... it's actually pretty packed... and there are... naked pictures of men on the walls... and the bartender's shirt has a rooster on it that says "my cock is happy to see you."

I've wandered into a gay bar.

I ask if they have live music there (No - although the posters suggest there are erotic dancers and drag shows frequently) or if they know of a bar nearby that does ("Honey, it's Monday night - even New York is dead!"). I check the one bar they do suggest called the Blue Spark down the street - and it has an open mic tonight! Hooray!

I've still got an hour or two, so I head home - Catharine's made pasta, which is a nice surprise. Such a mom. Then I head back to the bar. I arrive a bit late and have to sign up for the 11:30 spot. Still, I'm happy to sit in a bar and read. I end up meeting a bunch of locals there. Annette runs the place and is pretty freaking drunk when I meet her (but nice!) - and friend of hers just died and she's drowning her sorrows - she introduces me to her bartenders several times.

I listen to the music - some good (the guy who runs the night is a pretty amazing guitar/bass player - and there's a cool harmonica guy too). Many drunk wannabe drummers try to jump on stage and jam with others, but are kicked off. A group gets on and all the bartenders make "put in your ear protection" motions. It's just bass and drums though - how loud could it be?

Oh.

I move to the back of the bar and plug my ears. Finally I get to go on. I play a new one ("The Show Must Go On") and two girls start dancing - people start clapping. Then I play Green Day's Basketcase and people sing along and I get thumbs up from some of the other musicians. Then I play Caroline and lots of people start dancing. Annette gives me a thumbs up and suddenly it's one of the best shows I've played. And then I break a string... but keep playing - and only a couple people notice. People ask for an encore, and another musician lends me his guitar - I make some Canadian jokes - then play One Week, Dear Aunty Emm, and Fighter - and they keep dancing. One guy yells out Freebird (which I admit, I have no idea how to play, much less how it sounds. Please don't ask for Freebird at shows - I don't know it). Afterwards, Annette tells me that I rock. All the bartenders shake my hand. And a couple people buy CDs. What a great show!?!

I keep listening for a while - a totally fun funk band gets up, then the host guy gets up with a local drummer and they blow everyone away - they're pretty amazing jammers. I watch till the end and then head home.

Maybe it's the excitement from a good show, or the 2 cokes and 1 ice tea that I downed (I've been politely refusing drinks in the states...), but I don't sleep great.

So there you go - a terrible show and a great show in one night. Go figure.